LEAVITT STREET

As we cross Hoyne Avenue you’ll find a Sinclair Gas Station on the Southwest corner. In those days there weren’t many gas stations and infact there weren’t many cars. Because of the war, production had stopped and you only saw two colors, black and red. Gas was cheap and you had service; the attendant pumped your gas, cleaned your windows and checked your tires. A few doors down was the Strand Theatre I would go to the Sunday Matinee, the cost was 8-10 cents and candy a nickel. In the summer I remember the blue and white “KOOL”, sign. The theatres were the escape from the hot, lazy days of summer. The Strand featured B films such as: The Bowery Boys, Charlie Chan, Roy Rogers and Tarzan. You saw two films, double feature, with a cartoon, coming attractions and possibly a newsreel. My favorite cartoon was Mighty Mouse. The theatre opened at 1 P.M. and the shows were continuous, which meant they had no start or end time. At times they would have an intermission to collect money for the March of Times. In the middle of the week the Biltmore or Strand would have Dish Night. Dish Night was a time for ladies to collect a set of china or glasses. Each week they would collect a different dish. Today we still have some of those dishes. Across the street was Grossman’s Dry Good Store. It was a small store that sold a variety of clothes for kids. The store would be packed to the ceiling with socks, T shirts and other items. As we walk along we’ll pass more small shops until we reach the corners of Division and Leavitt.

To me this was a very historic corner. On the South East corner of Leavitt was a drug store and about a block south was the Russian Holy Trinity Orthodox Church. The church is a historical landmark. In the same area where St. Mary of Nazareth and Lutheran Deaconess Hospitals. Coming back to Division Street on the north corner was a little newsstand shack where we bought our newspapers. On the southwest corner was a chicken store selling fresh chickens. We could continue down Division Street to Humboldt Park, but I think it’s time to head on home. Before we head home, I can still envision people on a hot summer evening, with blanket in hand, going to sleep in the park. There was no air conditioning and it provided a comfortable and safe way to get a good nights rest. Police patrolled the streets on foot and the people were safe.

We’ll now head north on Leavitt. For what was considered a residential street it certainly had a variety of businesses. At the alley past Division was a Junk Yard where junkman parked their wagons and carts to sell their junk. During the War Years paper and rags were in demand; I would take my wagon with rags and a few bundles of paper and make a few pennies. On Leavitt and Crystal was a grocery store and near Potomac was Orries Fruit Store. At the corner of Potomac and Leavitt were Mutchniks Drug Store and Adams Tavern. A little past Mutchniks was a Jewish Bakery which had the greatest rye bread and rolls that you would ever eat. I loved their egg wash and salt stick buns. Across the street was a fish market. My father liked the Smoltz Herring. Going east on Potomac you would find another grocery store. There were plenty of the ma and pop stores. As we continue down Leavitt there was a pickling plant that made pickled pigs feet. You have too remember that these shops were all snuggled in between two and three story homes. On the same block were a shoemaker and a bike shop. A lot of times the storeowners lived in the back or second floor of the building.

Well, we have finally reached Evergreen Avenue. On the corner was Tony’s Tavern and across the way. my favorite candy store. In the summer I loved the ice cream sandwiches; the ice ream was sliced and placed between two slices of waffles.. My favorite ice cream was Neapolitan. The popsicles, fudgeicles and ice cream cups were also great... Next to the candy store was the Cheer Up Soda Factory. Cheer Up was similar and maybe even the predecessor to 7UP. If we would continue down Leavitt we would hit John’s Tavern located at Schiller Street; residential homes followed all the way to North Avenue. My father would buy a bottle of Canadian Ace, Schlitz, Fox Deluxe or Meister Brau at John’s. Topaz was the soda sold, in taverns, in the 40’s. On Sunday the men would get a free drink with their purchase, I f I was lucky my father would bring home a bag of Hi Ho Potato Chips.

For me Evergreen Avenue started at Leavitt Street and ended at Milwaukee Avenue. This was home. As we pass Tony’s we have Neuman’s Grocery Store. This was our neighborhood store. Here we bought our meats and most of our groceries; it was the hub for information and news. I still remember the long stick with a grabber at the end to bring down a roll of toilet paper or box of cereal. The store was open from 6AM to late in the evening, and part of Sunday. On many a day I remember going back and forth because I or my mother forgot something. Being a small kid you would find grown ups always trying to get ahead of you? You had to stand your ground. There were no numbers and you stood in line. Since many of the neighbors were Polish you would hear a lot of Polish. For instance I recall the famous line “Jak Sie Masz” and the reply “Jak Stary Kaczi” which meant “How Are You”” Like Old Underwear”.

Well, we’re back at 2143 W. Evergreen and The Front Porch. I hope you enjoyed the tour of the neighborhood. I certainly miss the neighborhood of old, the shops, the architecture, the friendliness of the people and the secure and safe feeling.

Till next week

Sasiad

DIVISION STREET

Let’s pickup our tour at Milwaukee, Division and Ashland Avenue. This area was known as the Polish Triangle. Here you would find the center for the publication of the Polish Newspapers: Dziennik Chicagoski and Dziennik Zwiazkowy (Polish Daily News). The Polish National Alliance and Polish Roman Catholic Union were located in the area. The PNA and PRCUA are large fraternal organizations that serve the Polish Community. My family belonged to the PNA and our society was called Brothers Under Three Crowns (Braci Pod Tre Coronie). You paid dues which entitled you to a small amount of life insurance and social activities such as dances and picnics. The Polish community is called Polonia. The Polish Catholic Church was the center of the Polish Community and nearby you could find Holy Trinity and St. Stanislaus Churches. My family belonged to Holy Trinity and it was the practice in those days to get confession cards. When you went to confession to make your Easter Duty you would turn your card in. This kept you in good standing and ensured that you could be buried from the Church. Polish High Schools had prominent locations in the area: Weber, Holy Trinity, and Holy Family High Schools. The Triangle had a little area for congregating and socializing. It was an area some of the neighborhood literary people would meet, notably Saul Bellow, Nelson Algren and Studs Terkel who wrote a book called”Division Street”. I can remember some of the stores in the Triangle such as Sajewski Music, Starsiak Clothing, The Wisniewski Funeral Chapel., Manufacturers Bank, Michaels Herb Teas, as well as a store to send packages to Poland.

OK, let’s start walking down Division Street. You’ll notice that the sidewalks are very wide, something you didn’t find on Milwaukee Avenue or other major streets in the area. Like Damen Avenue there were streetcars that provided transportation east to Downtown Chicago and west towards Humboldt Park. We’re going to head west towards Humboldt Park. Near the Triangle was the Crown Theatre and YMCA.. Spanning across Division Street were Elevator Tracks and nearby was the Post Office. Past the El Lines was Alliance Bakery known for its tarts and fancy pastries. During the 40’s Division Street was known as Polish Broadway for its bars and polka music. On the weekend the area came alive with Polka Music. Bars lined the street from the Triangle to California Avenue. I only remember a few of the names; Lucky Stop, Zakopane Lounge


and Midnight Inn. Let’s go back in time thru You Tube and listen to some of that honky music. I know you’d like to stay but we have to move on. Andersen Grammar School was nearby. It’s pretty quiet until we reach Damen and Division.

At the corners of Damen and Division you would find a bustling area of business and activity, something like the Triangle. Most memorable was a tobacco shop and haberdashery. At the haberdashery where shoe shine stands and a place for men to have their hats cleaned and blocked. Across the street was Brown and Koppels known for its corn beef sandwiches. The Biltmore Tire provided tire and auto accessories. There was Hammer’s Florist, a greeting card store, beauty shop, Bath House, and other small shops. I believe the Bath House was there to provide bath facilities for men who boarded and lacked facilities in the area. As we near Hoyne Avenue we find Biltmore Hardware, Boniface Bakery, I loved their whipped cream cakes and pies, on the corner was a tavern.. Before the bakery was the Biltmore Show one of the theatres that I would go to. The Biltimore was part of the Balaban and Katz chain which operated the Chicago Theatre. It was classier than the Crown, Royal, Wicker Park or Strand which we’ll visit next week. The tickets cost more and they ran better movies. Right around the corner on Hoyne was the cleaners that we would go to. We are now only three blocks from home and Evergreen Avenue.

Next week we’ll cross Hoyne Avenue and continue our walk down Division Street.

Sasiad

ON THE AVENUE

Hi, welcome back to My Front Porch. Today, I thought that we would continue our discussion on growing up in Wicker Park. Last week we talked about Evergreen Avenue and the stores and its people. To get a better picture of the neighborhood let’s take a walk and check out the major streets: Damen, Milwaukee, Division Street, North Avenue and Western Avenue.

It’s a short walk to Damen Avenue from The Front Porch on Evergreen Avenue. Damen Avenue was a major thoroughfare with red streetcars that provided transportation North and South... The streetcars where manned by a conductor and a motorman. Damen Avenue was cobble stoned with tracks and trolley lines to run the cars. It was not unusual for the trolley to disengage and the motorman or conductor to exit the streetcar and re-engage the trolley. Let’s start our walk north on Damen. On the corner at Evergreen and Damen was a Rexall Drug Store and across the street a Baptist Church About a block north is Wicker Park. The Park covers about two square blocks. Across from the Park were mostly homes. I remember a clinic that was located across from the park. That’s where I would go to be checked for colds and other ailments. Not far from the clinic was the El Subway that could get you downtown in less than 15 minutes. Somewhere near the El was the Stack and Ryan Bowling Alley. . As we pass the El we find three corners Damen, Milwaukee and North Avenues. This triangle was anchored by the Tower Building that housed doctors and dentists, Northwest Pharmacy, Irv’s Men Store and Fairfield S&L.



If you went west on North Avenue you would find The Association House, one of many settlement houses where immigrants were welcomed and received assistance in settling into our country. Many of the neighborhood kids played basketball at the Association House

For our tour let’s turn right onto Milwaukee Avenue, to me it was known as the “Avenue”. Milwaukee Avenue was the major shopping center that featured furniture, clothing, jewelry, movie theatres, and more. Wielboldts was our Marshall Field and the major department store in the area. I best remember Wielboldts for opening its 4th floor Christmas Toyland which featured Santa Claus, toys and a great train display. I also remember standing in line and waiting for Polish Ham at Glinkas Sausage and for fish at Jack’s Fish Market, it was a nightmare to go to those stores at Christmas or Easter. Nearby was the People’s Gas and Com Ed offices to pay your gas or electric bills. The A&P was the largest supermarket in the area. I remember the Chicago Bakery for its paczki, kruszecki, kolaczki, éclairs, French donuts and birthday cakes... There was Jack and Jills for ice cream sundaes and sodas. At Jack and Jills your water was served in a triangular tin cup with a paper cup insert. When was the last time you saw that? Two movie theatres, Wicker Park and The Royal Theatres had double features, cartoons and a news reels for pennies. Nearby was a wallpaper store. There was Tri-Are Lamps were we still have a lamp from. As we continue down Milwaukee Ave we cross Evergreen Ave., which runs at an angle and ended at Milwaukee Avenue... Nearby you could find Niederman Furniture, Royal Jewelers, and something you won’t find today, a fresh chicken store. Yes, you could buy fresh live chickens. The chickens were kept in coups until ready for killing and cleaning. There was a Record Store that sold 78 RPM records. You’d browse through the records that were stored on tables; you could play your selections in a sound proof room before purchase. There were a few taverns and you’d could smell the beer, it had a lasting aroma. There was a newsstand to buy local papers and magazines. My favorite store was the Woolworth 5&10; I liked the toys and the candy malt teasers and chocolate raisins... As we cross Wood Street we come to Wileboldts and across the street, were Tom McCann and Father and Son Shoes. Benson Rixon and Continental Clothing where the top men stores and Paddors was a favorite ladies store. You could find ladies hats and other accessories on the Avenue. The stores were closed on Sunday, but you’d find people strolling and window shopping on the Avenue...

We’ve reached the end of what I called the Avenue. We’re now at Milwaukee, Ashland and Division Street. Next week I would like to take you down Division Street and continue to look back at growing up in the 40’s...


Sasiad

THE FRONT PORCH

Welcome to the Front Porch. Glad you could join me as we continue to discuss growing up in the 40’s. I grew up in Wicker Park on Chicago’s Northwest Side. Wicker Park was originally a well to-do Jewish neighborhood. When I was growing up it was primarily Polish with a mix of Jewish, Italian and Irish families. There were also a few Black families in the neighborhood.

Most of the buildings were two or three story; some were split with a house in the front and one in the back. There were a number of six flats were you had 3 apartments in the front and 3 in the rear, Most of the Jewish families lived in large apartment buildings normally with 9-12 apartments. It was not unusual to find families living together in the same building. We had several related families living across from us and they also worked together in the same factory.

I lived on the 2100 block of Evergreen Avenue. The area was bounded by Damen Avenue on the East, Western Ave. on the West, North Ave. on the North and Division Street on the South. This was my corner of the world. Mostly everything that I would need could be found within this area.: school, stores, friends, shopping, and playgrounds. Wicker Park Grammar School was down the block and Tuley High School was within walking distance on Claremont Avenue. There was no need to bus, buy or take a lunch when schools were so close In the area you could find candy stores, where you could buy candy for a penny. Grocery stores were on both ends of Evergreen Avenue. I remember Blackstone because of their Bud Bowman and Oscar Mayer promotions. The companies would send out their mascots to sell their products. Drug stores could easily be found, and they had soda fountains. Of course there where taverns which sold beer by the pitcher. We had a number of fruit stores, a couple of shoemakers, and bakeries. In those days the milkman would deliver the milk to your doorstep. During the day junkmen traveled and sang out “Rag Ze Ly” along the streets by horse and wagon. I always waited for the peddler who would come with his horse and wagon selling fresh fruits and vegetables. A number of barns remained in the area to house the horses. The iceman delivered ice in the summer and the coal or oil men delivered coal or oil for the winter. For your special needs the knife sharpener would periodically come by to sharpen knifes. You knew everyone and had personalized service. This was entreunship at its best.

It’s getting late and time to say so-long for now. I hope you can come back next week and join me on The Front Porch as we continue to discuss growing up in the 40”s.


Sasiad

THE FRONT PORCH

Thanks for stopping by. Welcome to my Front Porch. Many of you are too young to have experienced the value of a front porch while growing up. I grew up in the 40’s and still remember it as the meeting place. Neighbors would come by to chat and enjoy the Summer Evenings. In those days there was a lot of camaraderie and friendship. Everyone seemed to know each other, and this provided a feeling of family.

My front porch was located on the Northwest Side of Chicago. I lived in a three story brick building and the porch was impressive. As you approached the house you would find a wooden fence with a gate. As you go thru the gate you walk up five wooden steps, as you reach the top there were two doors. The door on the left was for the first floor apartment and the door on the right led to the inside stairs for the second and third floor apartments. As you reach the top of the porch you notice benches on the left and right. Steel railings were on each side of the stairs. On the sides of the doors were mail boxes. There was a stoop that led to each door. The porch was painted red, to match the red brick, and the railings black. This porch differed from other structures that were attached to frame homes or brick houses with brick stairs. Each was unique, but still provided the comfort to meet and talk.

Most front porches had benches where you could sit, for overflows there were the stairs, stoops or railings. I can still feel the freshness of those warm summer evenings. Sometimes the mosquitoes would be a nuisance and we’d buy punks to keep them away. Neighbors would come out around 7PM and stay out until 8:30 or 9. Most people worked in factories and had to be up by 6AM and at work by 8AM. It wasn’t unusual to hear the factory horns or whistles each weekday to signal the start or end of work.

During the summer months you could smell the city’s stockyards. It seemed to cover the City and would last for hours. Speaking of odors, there were plenty of smokers in those days. They would light up their Luckies or Camels and sometime a cigar. In July you could hear the fireworks from the different festivals. The one that was the loudest was the Italian (Dago) Fest. In those days people weren’t politically correct and used their adjectives freely to express themselves.

In my opinion the 40’s was the era of the front porch. After the 40’s we saw different styles of homes built that didn’t have front porches. Older homes were knocked down and fewer front porches remain. Neighborhoods changed and it even became dangerous to sit outside. I feel lucky to have experienced this time in history and cherish the remaining front porches.

I invite you back next week, to My Front Porch, to discuss the neighborhood and its people.


Your Sasaid – (Shun-Shad) Neighbor in Polish

FROM THE FRONT PORCH

WELCOME TO MY FRONT PORCH. I created this blog to reminisce about the past and at times to get serious about current events. I selected Front Porch as my theme because during the 40's it was the place people would meet and discuss the happenings of the day. The kids would play "it" or "hide and seek". It was an important part of the neighborhood.



My approach will be to seek out your memories, ideas and feelings on a number of topics. Feel free to join me each week as we choose a different topic. My first topic will be "The Front Porch". I would appreciate hearing from you on what role the front porch played in your neighborhood.



I'll be looking for you next week on "MY FRONT PORCH